I recently arrived by train to the large city of Poitiers. Back between the 10th and 12th centuries, this city was the capital of the largest principality in the Kingdom of France. "Noble" men and women's ancestors were born here; such as Diane de Poitiers, King Henry II's favorite mistress.
This city (according to a brochure) "mixes ancient and contemporary dynamism", which is spot on. See the new buildings along the Clain River and the crumbling old fortress-like wall from the 12th century or earlier? Everywhere I walk in Poitiers, is a blend of old and new.
I had to do a triple-take! The youth hostel and the municipal swimming pool are within 50 feet of each other. And yes, I had a swim in that pool which was delightful.
My exploratory day of walking around the "old" part of the city was like entering a time machine, back to the medieval ages. I took all the usual tourist photos, so I won't bore you with those right away.
The promotional material for this city claims this region is renowned for its goat cheese, especially its Chabichou (never heard of it). I saw these cheeses in one of the thousands of little boutique shops in the "old" part of the city.
But at approximately $50 USD per pound . . . not today.
The other mouth watering window was this one . . .
While walking around the old part of the city, the most amazing thing that shook-up my analytical organized efficient mind was all those charming but crooked streets. I'm not one to shy away from structural challenges (I designed a pentagon gazebo with the mathematical help of my sister who's a whiz with formulas), but I wonder why the medieval folks insisted on building wavy, crooked and asymmetrical streets and alleys? It complicates the construction of the walls of each home; adjustments of 10, 20, 30 and/or 40 degrees were made, plus adjustments of interior walls. But the charm is its non-uniformity; every house has its own unique dimensions.
The alley above is angled, the alley below is curvy.
This crooked intersection below defies logic. See how the home to the far left encroaches on the sidewalk?
I don't know why this all amazes me. Can you imagine the twelfth century horse and carriages traveling down these crooked, wavy, asymmetrical alleys?
Maybe these crooked alleys were determined by rain run-off?
I wonder, too, who lives in these old homes, and where do they park their cars at night?
Ah! See how the third house (far right below) is at approximately a 10 degree-angle to the second house? I've wondered which came first, the offset homes or the crooked alley? Most likely, the crooked alley came first, but why? Especially in an age of horses and carriages when it'd be really hard to maneuver?
Such are the things I pondered today on my exploratory walk of the old city.
I will post again tomorrow; too many photos to post here today. But, two more observations . . . French folks have an affinity for beautiful sheer linen curtains on their front windows. The amazing thing about it all, I have never seen two alike. These curtains aren't sold by Walmart or Sears or JC Penney. I could do an entire post with 50 photos of the French windows facing the street, each is beautiful and unique.
And by the way, remember the fellow traveler who sat a piano at the Rennes train station (click here for my YouTube video). He played three classics by memory; I was impressed. My first reaction was "Where's his money cup?" assuming he was a struggling musician soliciting financial aid among a captive audience. But there was no money cup, only his traveling bag.
The following week at the same station, while waiting for a train to Solesmes, there was a fiddle player accompanying a man playing the piano. After their song, they shook hands, said a few words with mutual grins, obviously complete strangers, and each walked away in different directions with their respective traveling bags.
A short time later, this man sat his traveling bag down and banged out a song by memory on the piano.
Then this old man sat down with his bags and played a few short songs.
I suppose natural-born performers find a captive audience irresistible because this young man stopped near the piano to juggle a bowling pin up and down his arm for a few minutes.
Then a young teen sat down and played a few songs. Like those before him, he seemed just as oblivious to us train travelers as we were to him. I'm pretty sure none of these amateur pianists were playing for praise. Probably just personal joy.
I'm getting to my point, oui :) When I arrived at train stations in Saint Pierre des Corps and in Angers, and finally in Poitiers, there was a piano in each main train station waiting area. And, folks (mostly men, which seems strange) were almost lining-up for a chance to play. Isn't that amazing? France has so many delightful surprises.
Tomorrow, I will show you a few old cathedrals . . . .
Post-Script January 6, 2017: Did a little research on Medieval Age Urban Design and the issue of haphazard, asymmetrical street design is an academic topic that's been researched and written about. The theory I like is that chamber pots were often emptied into the streets, and with a heavy rain, one hoped for a flushing action to wash the excrement (animal manure, too), to the river. Makes sense to me . . .
Post-Script January 6, 2017: Did a little research on Medieval Age Urban Design and the issue of haphazard, asymmetrical street design is an academic topic that's been researched and written about. The theory I like is that chamber pots were often emptied into the streets, and with a heavy rain, one hoped for a flushing action to wash the excrement (animal manure, too), to the river. Makes sense to me . . .
VERY NICE !
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